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Fairchild Live Oak Tree in northern Volusia County Florida

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After the Storms
Is your damaged tree worth saving?

For Univ. of Florida Arboriculture Professor Ed Gilman's observations
of what we learned from the recent hurricanes,
click here
For more information on recognizing Hazard Trees, click here.

 


First, Assess the Damage

Before writing off a damaged tree as a "goner," homeowners should evaluate their trees by asking the following questions:

bulletOther than the storm damage, is the tree basically healthy and vigorous? If the tree is basically healthy, is not creating a hazard, and did not suffer major strucural damage, it will generally recover if first aid measures are applied immediately after the storm.
bulletAre major limbs broken? The larger a broken limb is, the harder it will be for the tree to recover from the damage. If a majority o the main branches are gone, the tree may have little chance of surviving.
bulletHas the leader (the main upward-trending branch on most trees) been lost? In species where a leader is important to upward growth or desirable appearance, it may have to be a judgment call. The tree may live without its leader, but at best would be a stunted or deformed version of the original.
bulletIs at least 50 percent of the tree's crown (branches and leaves) still intact? This is a good rule of thumb on tree survivability. A tree with less than half of its branches remaining may not be able to produce enough foliage to nourish the tree through another season.
bulletHow big are the wounds where branches have been broken or bark has been damaged? The larger the wound is in relation to the size of the limb, the less likely it is to heal, leaving the tree vulnerable to disease and pests. A two- to three-inch wound on a 12-inch diameter limb will seal over with new bark within a couple of years.
bulletAre there remaining branches that can form a new branch structure? The remaining limbs will grow more vigorously as the tree tries to replace its missing foliage. Look to see if branches are in place that can eventually fill out the tree's appearance.
bulletIs the tree of a desirable species for its location? If the tree is in the wrong location (such as a potentially tall tree beneath a power line), or an undesirable species for the property (weak wood, poor structure, messy fruit, etc.), it may be best to remove the tree if it has serious damage. (click here for more information on desirable tree species)
bulletIs the tree leaning? If the tree is small and leaning, it can often up straightened. A larger tree is much more difficult to straighten. If a large tree is leaning toward a house, driveway, play area or road, then it may be better to remove the tree to avoid hazard conditions. For more information,   (click here for more information on leaning trees).

If you answered "yes" to the majority of these questions, there is a good chance for complete recovery. For assistance, hire an arborist trained to assess a tree’s condition and make proper correcting pruning cuts. Topping a tree is not an acceptable tree care procedure. Knowledgeable arborists will refuse to top a tree. There are better methods to reduce the size of a branch or trunk.

Do not try to do all the work yourself- If large limbs are broken or hanging, or if ladder or overhead chain saw work is needed, it is a job for a professional arborist. Hanging limbs are dangerous because they could fall at any time. And inexperienced people standing on tall ladders trees are dangerous too. People can also fall at any time. So be careful!
 

Then, Make the Decision

The questions listed above will help you make informed decisions about your trees. In general, the answer as to what to do about a particular tree will fall into one of three categories:

1: It's a Keeper

If damage is relatively slight, prune any broken branches, repair torn bark or rough edges around wounds, and let the tree begin the process of wound repair. (artwork courtesy of National Arbor Day Association http://www.arborday.org/media)

(Click on line art drawing for enlarged view)

An Easy Call:
A mature shade tree can usually survive the loss of one major limb. The broken branch should be pruned back to the trunk. In the months to follow, large wounds should be closely monitored for signs of decay.


Minor Damage:

Although the tree has been damaged, enough strong limbs may remain on a basically healthy tree to make saving it possible.

 

Too Young to Die:
Young trees can sustain quite a bit of damage and still recover quickly. If the leader is intact and the structure for future branching remains, remove the broken branches and let the tree close over the wounds and recover itself.


2: Wait and See

If a valuable tree appears to be a borderline case, resist the temptation to simply cut the tree down and be done with it. In such cases, it may be best to stand back for a while and think it over. Remember that time is on your side. After careful pruning of broken branches, give the tree some time to recover. A final decision can be made later.

(Click on line art drawing for enlarged view)


Easy Does It:

Resist the temptation to prune too heavily. Remember that the tree will need all the foliage it can produce in order to make it through the next growing season. Remove only the damaged limbs, wait and see what happens


Hold Off:

A healthy mature tree can recover even when several major limbs are damaged. With large trees, a professional arborist should be brought in to assess damage on a borderline situation, and to safely accomplish needed pruning and branch removal.

 

3: Say Goodbye

Some trees simply can't be saved or are not worth saving. If the tree has already been weakened by disease, if the trunk is split, or more than 50 percent of the crown is gone, the tree has lost its survival edge.

(Click on line art drawing for enlarged view)

Tree Tragedy:
This otherwise healthy young tree has lost too much of its crown the leafy head that is vital for survival. It will probably not be able to grow enough new branches and leaves to provide needed nourishment, and will never be able to regain its former beautiful shape.
 

Hopeless Case:
About all that's left of this tree is its trunk. The few remaining branches can't provide enough foliage to enable the tree to make it through another growing season.
 

Farewell to a Friend:
A rotten inner core in the trunk or structural weakness in branching patterns can cause a split trunk the tree equivalent of a heart attack. The wounds are too large to ever mend, and the tree has lost its sap lifeline between roots and leaves. This tree is all but dead.
 

Here is some additional information to consider (prepared by Chuck Lippi and other ISA arborists):

Straightening leaning trees- Many trees suffer friction failures that cause the tree’s root system to lift out of the ground as the tree leans over. Uprooted trees are often unnecessarily removed under the mistaken idea that they can not be saved. These leaning trees can be very dangerous especially if they are large and leaning toward property or areas that people frequent. Consult the service of a knowledgeable arborist if you are unsure about performing this work. Large trees are much more difficult to straighten than a relatively small or young tree. And straightening a large tree will require the use of heavy equipment. Most straightened trees should be staked or supported for six to 12 months while new roots grow to support the tree in the proper position.

 Beware of price gouging- Sometimes less credible tree services will take advantage of storm victims. Good tree work by qualified professionals is not inexpensive; however, poor work no matter the price paid can cost you a great deal. A reasonable price for professional tree work in Florida ranges from $75-$125 per worker per hour. This price includes liability and workman’s compensation insurance, as well as bucket trucks and equipment. It does not include heavier specialty equipment that may be needed such as cranes, loaders, etc., or hardware that may be installed in the tree. A good properly insured arborist will not mind if you call his or her insurance carrier to be sure the liability and workers’ compensation policies are in effect. If insurance is not in effect and an accident occurs, it becomes the homeowner’s problem.

 Financial recovery- Be aware that tree losses to your landscape, whether large or small, may be deductible from your taxes. Two steps must be taken to be able to claim this deduction:

  1. Document the tree damage/loss with photos and an evaluation from a certified arborist who has experience appraising trees. Such a certified arborist will be able to provide you with an estimated dollar value for your loss. Even if the tree has already been removed, photos or videos that show the tree may provide enough information for an appraisal.
  2. Consult the services of a tax professional. Even if you don’t have insurance, you may be entitled to some financial relief by taking advantage of a provision of the tax code which allows you to deduct casualty losses from your income tax.

Know your tree species- Some species are more prone to storm damage such as: older laurel oaks and water oaks, pines, Chinaberry, sweet gum, sycamore, Chinese tallow, mimosa, Southern red cedar and Chinese elm trees. Some of the strongest trees during storms are Southern live oak, Southern magnolia, and sabal (cabbage) palms. (click here for more information on recognizing hazard trees)

 

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Last modified: 03/07/06.